You can get a rough overview of the changes per minute looking at https://codepen.io/Krinkle/full/BwEKgW which listens to the event stream. (scroll to the bottom of the page, its seems slightly broken right now)

This shows ~300 edits per minute on en.wikipedia (5 a second) right now. ~1500 edits per minuites on all sites (25 a second)

There's an irc channel (#en.wikipedia on irc.wikimedia.org) that just lists edits as they happen - i always found it helped me appreciate the scale of things.