I thought I'd removed all of the trackers before I launched. It's just using Goat Counter (https://www.goatcounter.com/) which I believe is European-friendly. did I miss one?
If that's the case, then great - but to my ignorant eye the warning notice at the bottom seemed to imply there were some (or, at least - as a passerby - I am perhaps unsure what merits a 'strictly necessary technical tracker') and then there's no visible opt-out. Which makes sense if there's nothing to opt-out from!
I must admit, I assumed a dark pattern was at play.